Isn’t It Time for More Rieslings in Your Life?
Each year as I plan my wine-tasting schedule, I grapple with fixed events—ZAP Experience, Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, Premiere Napa, numerous wine competitions, etc. These popular events exist because their categories are active in the marketplace with consumers and professionals. Rieslings are another story, and I should have tasted more of them.
The Cobb Riesling, Cole Ranch - Mendocino, Cole Ranch Vineyard: One of California’s best!
Domaine Kirrenbourg Grand Cru Schlossberg K Riesling K, Alsace 2018: Deeply hued and expressive!
For decades my colleague retailers, e-tailers, and restaurateurs would tell me, “I like Rieslings, but they just don’t sell! Consequently, retail shelves, online listings, and restaurant lists showcase the major categories (Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel for red wines and Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Grigio for white wines. As 2022 winds down, I am working through the wines I tasted, seeing what stood out, and deciding how to pivot my 2023 game plan so that I give Rieslings and other under-the-radar wine groups their due justice. Here is a list of 10 of my most memorable Rieslings tasted in 2022 (in alphabetical order).
· Lucien Albrecht Grand Cru Spiegel Riesling, Alsace 2017. Over the years, I have enjoyed these wines, but this year, I got a great look at the wines, and this one hit the spot. Incredibly flavorful, this wine offers ripe apples, a hint of floral nuances, some petrol, and dried earth; it stays long on the palate. (My Score: 92 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $35.
· Blue Quail Dry Riesling, Potter Valley 2021. Made from the oldest block of Riesling vines in Mendocino County (49 years old), this wine was impressive in the Sweepstakes Round at the 2022 North of the Gate Wine Competition. Guinness McFadden planted the family’s first vines in 1970 in the cool Potter Valley. Today, his children carry on the family tradition. This wine is bright, crisp, and carries a smidgeon of residual sugar in the finish. It exhibits mineral notes, lively green apples, and a hint of peach fuzz. Production: 482 cases; Certified Organic by CCOF (My Score: 90 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $19.
· Dr. Bűrklin-Wolf Estate Riesling Trocken, Pfalz 2020. Bürklin-Wolf, one of the most important producers in the Pfalz, is a winery I have followed for decades. I have always enjoyed the richness of the wines. This wine offers excellent ripeness and textures on the palate. Lovely apple and lightly floral, with a suggestion of savory spices, make a perfect choice for a casual dinner party. (My Score: 92 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $20.
· Cobb Riesling, Cole Ranch – Mendocino, Cole Ranch Vineyard 2019. Proprietor Ross Cobb is adamant about making the best wines possible. I always find his wines distinctive and a cut above the rest. This wine, made from California’s tiniest AVA, is remarkable! Stones, rocks-in-the-desert, green apples, and chalkiness abound. Its dry finish and outstanding balance make it one of California's best Rieslings. (My Score: 93 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $35.
· Domaine Kirrenbourg Grand Cru Schlossberg K Riesling, Alsace 2018 Importer Steven Ventrello was proud to show this wine to me, and I can see why. I was not familiar with this producer. This wine is deeply hued and expressive. Pear skin aroma, apples, firm on the palate, generous finish. (My Score: 92 Points) Suggested Retail: $75.
· Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett Mosel Riesling 2018. Joh. Jos. Prüm, one of Germany’s top producers (as my friend and colleague Gerald Weisl says), always seems to show up. This wine is stylish, flavorful, and lasting. Ripe apples, slight floral note, dried earthiness; focused. (My Score: 93 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $56.
· Smith-Madrone Vineyards and Winery Riesling, Spring Mountain District 2017. One of my best discoveries of 2022, I have followed this winery since the mid-1970s. The Riesling has been consistent and fine. This is tightknit and nicely built. Apple blossoms, green apple, mineral notes, long zesty finish. (My Score: 95 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $30.
· Trefethen Family Vineyard Dry Riesling, Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley 2018. This wine, over the decades, has been one of the go-to Rieslings made in California. Green apple and light floral notes flow from the wine’s start to finish; excellent, crisp finish. (My Score: 92 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $26.
· Union Sacré Wines Kick on Ranch Vineyard Dry Riesling, Santa Barbara County 2021. Union Sacré wines are unique and handmade. This deeply colored wine is long and flavorful. Apple and earthy, hints of flowers; firm and long in the finish. (My Score: 90 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $42.
· Willm Kirchberg de Barr Grand Cru Riesling, Alsace 2020. Layered, rich, and intense, this wine delivers. Sweet earthiness, stone fruits; long, lasting, and great staying power in the finish. (My Score: 93 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $24.
Next time you stroll in the wine aisles, click online, peruse a wine list stop by the Riesling section. Ask the wine steward or sommelier about which Rieslings they recommend for your occasion. This is my list from 2022. Happy Shopping!
Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett Riesling Mosel 2018: Stylish, flavorful, and lasting
